Dawn

I Dahab

Where the desert meets the sea

28°30'N · 34°31'E · Sinai Peninsula · Egypt

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Right now in Dahab
Reading the sky…

A small town on the edge of everything

Dahab sits where the Sinai mountains drop into the Red Sea. A Bedouin fishing village turned global diving mecca — yet somehow still raw, still real. No high-rises. No chain hotels. Just desert, sea, a handful of dusty roads, and people who came for a week and stayed for a decade.

I was one of them. I lived in Dahab from 2002 to 2012. Ten years of sunrises over Saudi Arabia, diving the Blue Hole before breakfast, drinking tea with Bedouins in the mountains. This page is my love letter to the place that changed my life.

365
Sunny Days
25°
Water Temp
1000+
Coral Species
10
Years I Lived There

A Personal Timeline

My Dahab story

2002

Originally from Bavaria — Bad Wörishofen, then Munich. Moved to Mediaș in Romania with my girlfriend Sorina. After six months there, we headed to Egypt together. Arrived in Dahab with a backpack and no plan — meant to stay two weeks. The sea was so clear, the mountains so silent, the people so warm — I never bought a return ticket. Brought her son Paul over, got married — the whole program. Spent all my money and was broke. That's when Dahab really began.

Looking for a place to stay, we wandered into the Alibaba Hotel and met Mr. Mones for the first time. Not as an employer yet — just as a host. Warm, careful, generous. The kind of person who makes a stranger feel like they were always supposed to be here. That meeting set the tone for everything else.

Soon after came Jackie at the dive shop and Klaus on his motorbike. The three of them became my closest friends here. We shared stories over tea, food in each other's kitchens, the small daily life. The community was our life — the other expats, the bedouins, the sea, the desert. Everything else followed from that.

2003–2005

Broke and newly married, I walked into the Alibaba Hotel and met Mr. Mones — a man I'll always be grateful for. He gave me a job: $150 a month, full-time, 8–10 hours a day, one day off. I fixed his accounting software with a simple Excel script. He loved it so much he used it for ten years — maybe still does. Then he offered me to be general manager. Thirteen rooms. That was my breakthrough — no going back to Europe broke. I'd make it right here. It was one of the best jobs I ever had. That $150 covered rent for a beautiful little flat with wood and ceramic floors — $75 a month — plus food, and even education for Paul. Paulino. My stepson, my son — I met this awesome young boy when he was 5 through his mom Sorina, who I married. We spent many years in Dahab together. What a story.

Learned to dive. Fell in love with the reef. Built a life in Al Fanar — the lighthouse end of Dahab, quieter, closer to the reef. Wrote code by day, sometimes dove the Blue Hole — but mostly just lived in Dahab. Hanging with friends, sessions under the palms, fire, drums. Living the movie The Beach. The best commute on earth was a 5-minute walk to the sea.

2006

The Dahab bombings. April 24. Three explosions in the tourist bazaar. I survived. The town was wounded but never broken. The Bedouins, the divers, the dreamers — everyone stayed and rebuilt together.

2007–2011

Golden years. Pendling between Romania and Egypt. In 2008 I launched MyDays from a rooftop with a satellite dish. I remember asking Sorina — hey, do you think it's a good idea? She said sure, why not. Didn't matter — I was already done building it and nothing could hold me back. Freediving at dawn, coding at noon, Bedouin tea at dusk. Dahab taught me that you don't need much to have everything.

2012

Left for Munich. Hardest goodbye I ever said. But also the best decision — I have freedom through my passport that most Bedouins don't have. And I remember my Bedouin friends waving, holding up a sign: "Best of luck, Chris. See you soon again." That's the thing. Go use your options. Keep us in mind. I promised I would. This page is one of my acts to prove it — not just in words. Hello world. This is Dahab.

Dahab doesn't let go. Every year I go back. Every time, it feels like coming home.

Looking Back

I'm thankful for all of it. All the experiences, all the people I met — the sheiks, the foreigners, the expats, the locals. That small community in a former fishing village. From palms and sand to little huts and shops, to camps and bigger hotels — creative and innocent and just beautiful. I hear it's more of a party scene now. Still — I want to meet again.

A footnote · 2006 era

When this site was younger

ilovedahab.com circa 2006 — the original red-hearted design
ilovedahab.com · circa 2006 · screenshot from the archive
2006

There was already an ilovedahab.com back then. A wild red-hearted homepage with everything I could think of: a forum, yellow pages, the weather, bus timetables, even a little dahab.tv. Users could upload their photos. Hotels and small businesses had ads. There was a Sinai section, a women's corner, jobs, real estate. It looked like the early 2000s looked — bright red, busy, hand-coded, full of love. I was so proud of it.

I had just come back from Germany with a webcam. Plugged it in and pointed it at myself. The first thing the world saw on ilovedahab.com was me, sitting in front of my computer. Lol. Not exactly the postcard I wanted to share.

Then Klaus showed up

A man with an iroquois haircut and a cool offroad motorbike. He lived nearby at a beautiful spot with one perfect palm and the Red Sea behind it at sunrise. We installed the webcam there. That was the postcard. We had so much joy with it.

Then I helped other businesses do the same. Some got in trouble with it — less the foreigners, more the locals. The security police thought they were spying or up to something illegal. Not every webcam survived. But for a while, a small constellation of cameras showed Dahab to the world in real time.

"Now we have to talk."

One time I was invited to Dahab security police because my partner needed a visa extension. The officer was reading her papers. I mentioned, almost casually, that I'm the guy with ilovedahab.com. He stopped reading. He put her papers aside, looked me dead in the eye, and said: "Now we have to talk."

He questioned me for what felt like an age. The visa paper got delayed — and you can guess how that landed at home. Lol. One of those episodes you call fun only afterwards. I went through it. It was an experience.

The good years

Klaus sold ads on the page. We ran community events under the ilovedahab umbrella. A German friend who lived in Dahab and worked with cloth made t-shirts. Community was all of us. Without it, there was nothing — and that's something I'll always be thankful for.

Not all sunshine, of course. Sometimes too much sun. Sometimes running for hours, days behind someone for those 100 LE ($10 then — real money). Business was down for a long time after the 2006 bombings. Everyone was struggling. So you stayed close. With drums, singing, playing the bedouin way. Slowly slowly. Chill down.

Hello to my Mesina tribe brothers and sisters.

The Essentials

What makes Dahab Dahab

🤿

World-Class Diving

The legendary Blue Hole. The Canyon. Ras Abu Galum. Gabr El Bint. Shore diving that rivals anything in the Maldives — and you walk in from the beach, no boat needed.

🏄‍♂️

Wind & Kite

The Lagoon has thermal winds from April to October. Flat water, steady 20-knot side-shore — a kitesurfer's playground. Beginners to pros, everyone shares the same turquoise bay.

🏔️

Sinai Mountains

Mount Sinai at sunrise. Colored Canyon. White Canyon. Bedouin-guided treks to places no guidebook mentions. Sleep under a sky with more stars than darkness.

🫖

Bedouin Culture

The Mezaina tribe has lived here for centuries. Their hospitality is unconditional. A glass of sweet tea, a fire in the desert, stories told in the old way. This is the real Sinai.

🧘

Yoga & Wellness

Rooftop sessions with Red Sea views. Desert sound healing. Freediving as meditation. Dahab attracts seekers — the kind of people who traded the fast lane for the deep end.

🍽️

Food by the Sea

Fresh fish grilled on the promenade. Egyptian mezze. Bedouin bread baked in sand. Sit on cushions, feet almost in the water, watch the sun paint Saudi Arabia gold.

From Someone Who Lived There

Travel tips

A few friends

People worth meeting in Dahab

Dahab is small. The same faces show up in your life over and over until they become part of the place. Here are a few I keep going back to — and the things they do that make staying easier or sweeter for everyone passing through.

🤿 Jackie — diver's diver

Jackie has been guiding divers in Dahab for over 20 years. He teaches at Circle Divers — 5-Star PADI, Dahab and Sharm El Sheikh, everything from your first Open Water to tech deep and CCR. The real magic is him: he knows every coral head, every turtle's favorite spot, every current by name. When he takes you to the Blue Hole, you see the reef through the eyes of someone who's loved it for decades.

Explore Circle Divers →  ·  Jackie has a personal case he's asking for help with — read it here →

🏨 Mr. Mones — Alibaba Hotel

The man who gave me my first job in Dahab back in 2003. Thirteen rooms in the old part of town, a quiet warm soul running them, and a fix-the-Excel-script that became my breakthrough. We built a friendship over years. If you stay at the Alibaba Hotel, you'll feel that same calm, careful hospitality — it's still there in how the place runs.

Find Alibaba Hotel →

There are many more — bedouin guides, café owners, the woman who bakes bread in sand on the beach, the boys who fix everything with wire and patience. Dahab is a town of "one of these guys." Stay long enough and you'll have your own list.

Once you go, you never truly leave

Everyone who's been to Dahab carries a piece of it. The light. The silence. The way the sea looks at 6am. Come find out what we mean.

Want to expand your horizon? Zoom out into more of Sinai →